Matt Maddaloni
Passion: Adventure rock climbing, big walls, deep water soloing.
Home Base: Squamish, Canada.

I consider myself an all round climber but my climbing resume tends to point towards adventure rock climbing, big wall climbing and deep water soloing. Now at the age of 33, I've been living in Canada's granite destination, Squamish B.C. for the past 20 years and 10 of those years with my wonderfull wife Annie.



Climbing Resume

Some of my expedition successes have been a 25 day big wall route in Baffin Island, a solo big wall ascent in Pakistan, a 10 pitch 5.12 route in the Bugaboos and a new 4500 foot 5.13 free climb on Mt. Combatant in the Waddington Range.

In 2007 I completed two record link ups. In Squamish I climbed University Wall, The Roman Chimneys, Northern Lights and Freeway, all free, leading every pitch in 16.5 hours. A week later I visited the Bugaboo Range and climbed 5 routes on 5 peaks free solo in a day. McTech Arete, N.E. Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, The Becky / Chouinard on the South Howser Tower and the Krauss / McCarthy on Snowpatch Spire.

The Unusual

Invented the Anticam device. I used three to climb the first ascent of the Guillotine Flake on the Grand Wall, Squamish.
Built a net to protect climbing Young Blood, 13a without a rope.
Rigging to test the worlds biggest crash pad, 55 foot free fall. First ever test of the bag.
Designed a robot cable cam system for filming adventure sports. Has turned into a full time business at www.seatoskycam.com

Major First Ascents

Cro-Magnon Man (V A4 5.9) Zodiac Wall, Squamish, Sept 04.
The Smoke Show (ED2 5.12d 1pa) S Face of The Incisor, Mt. Combatant, Waddington, Aug 04.
Wild Fire (V 5.11d 10 pitches) Wide Awake Tower, Bugaboos. Aug 03.
Yukon Gold (V 5.12+ A0) Zodiac Wall, Squamish. July 03.
F.O.P.A.P.O (IV 5.10+) Chicken Tower, Thailand. Jan 03.
The Over Nighter (V 5.11 A3) Mt Combatant, Waddington Range, July 02.
Horizoned (IV 5.11) Stiletto Needle, Waddington Range, July 02.
The Black Dyke (V 5.13b 12 pitches) Grand Wall, Squamish. June 02.
Against the Grain (VI V2 A4- ) Solo, Nangma Valley, Pakistan. 12 days, July 01.
Midnight Watch (VII 5.10 A4+) Gibbs Fiord, Baffin Island. 25 days, May 00.
Warriors of the Wasteland (5.12b 8 pitches) Western Dihedrals, Squamish. Sept 99.
Funk Soul Brother (VI 5.9 A4+) Powell River B.C. 8days, Aug 99.

Free Climbs

Deep Water Soloing: March of the Jelly Fish 7C+, Pussy Galore 7B+, Maximus 7A+, Tron V5 6B
Free Solo: Becky\Chounard (V 5.10, onsight) McTech Arete (5.10, onsight) Clean Crack 5.11b
Yosemite: Astroman, Rostrum (onsight), Half Dome NW face regular (8:38 hrs).
Squamish: Northern Lights, Freeway, University Wall.
Moab: 14 desert towers, onsight of; Dolofright 11d, Infrared 12a, and The Witch 11d.
Black Canyon: Onsight of Stoned Oven (V 5.12a).
Thailand: Lord of the Thai's 7b+ (onsight), FA: Blue Moon 5.11+ four pitches.
Pakistan: Luxor Pyramid (5.10, 9 pitches) Charakusa Valley, Karakoram .

Bouldering:

Ride the Lightning, V8 high ball
NoTroblems V9
Sesame Street V10

Sport Routes:

Table of Colors 13b in Red River Gorge,
Nubian Queen 13b on the Black Dyke, Grand Wall, Squamish.

Trad Routes:

Flight of the Challenger 12c,
Vargas Girl 12b,
Genius Loci 12b,
The Underfling 13a.

Big Walls

Squamish:

FA: Lost at Sea (V A4 5.9) 3 pitches.
FA: Cro-Magnon Man (V A4 5.9) 10 pitches.
FA Solo: Born Slippy (VI A3).
2nd ascent: I Shot the Sheriff (V A4+).
Solo 2nd ascent: Under the Gun (V A4).
Solo 2nd ascent: Cowboys and Indians (V A3).

Yosemite:

Native Son (VI A4+) 4 1/2 days.
Solo Zenyatta Mondatta, (VI A4) 4 days.
A.O. Wall (VI A4) 4 days.
Clean ascent of Mescalito (VI C4) 6 days.
S.S. to P.O. Wall (VI A3+) 6 days.
Sea of Dreams (VI A4) 5 1/2 days.

Zion:

First clean ascent of Lunar Ecstasy (V C4) 2 days.

Ice and Mixed:

Canadian Rockies:

Carls Berg Pillar WI 5.
Curtain Call WI 6.
Betty's Pillar WI 6.
Last Call M7.
Boyd's Mystery M8.

Coast Mountains: Shriek of the Sheep WI 5.

Waddington Range: Stiletto Ice Chimneys WI 4.

 
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