Andrew Boyd and I, along with Jia Condon, Guy Edwards, Kevin Mclane and Chris Atkinston flew off to the Waddington range with Mike King and his helicopter. We arrived mid July 2002 at Combatant / Waddington col base camp at 3100 meters.

The fantastic route Belligerence ascends 5000 feet off awesome pure rock climbing which makes this route one of the most spectacular features in all the coast range. The route is split into three sections: 1st a 2000-foot tower of perfect vertical granite called the Incisor. 2nd a ridge with tower Gendarmes for another 2000 feet to a large snow terrace where it is possible to traverse off to Waddington, Combatant base camp. 3rd another 1000 feet up a vertical ridge to the summit of Combatant.

Andrew and I had planned to climb a new route beside Belligerence. We hoped a new line would take us up the steepest face and link up with Belligerence on the summit of the Incisor and continue with the route the rest of the way. We descended 2000 feet from base camp down an ice fall to the beginning of the route. A steep gully and a short pitch of mixed climbing gained us access to the top of a low angle ridge. From here we climbed three pitches of free climbing at 5.10 to the top of a tower. Above lay another 1500 feet of overhanging rock. With nothing but a small rack, ice axes, a 10mm and a 8mm rope with no ledge or tent we committed to the route. After two days of climbing we made it up another three hard aid pitches. Exposure got the better of my partner who had recently dealt with a major health scare due to peanuts, so we rappelled off. Since the route we had climbed to gain access to the Incisor proper was called A Day Trip, we named our extension, The Over Nighter (V 5.11 A3).

Nothing else is on my mind then returning to the Waddington Range next year and finishing what we started. I have never seen a more awesome realm of golden granite in the alpine of Canada than that of the Tiedemann group.

After our new route attempt. We all flew off via helicopter to the Plummer hut to try for some climbing on Stiletto and the surrounding spires. Andrew and I climbed a three pitch new line on Claw Peak behind the hut and that night Guy Edwards and I soloed up the ridge. The next day Andrew and I climbed the Chilton Must route up the Blade to the top of Stiletto adding a pitch here and there.

Finally Guy, Jia Condon and myself moved camp two hour hike away to the base of the Stiletto group. Here we added a new three pitch route to the Stiletto Needle. Cold technical free climbing at about 5.11a. At that point the weather window ended and we radioed for a pick up and had a huge home cooked meal on the farm.