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I consider myself an all round climber but my climbing resume tends to point towards adventure rock climbing and deep water soloing. Now at the age of 29, I've been living in Canada's granite destination, Squamish B.C. for the past 14 years and 5 of those years with my wonderfull wife Annie. I work full time at www.ziptrek.com working as their lead construction rigger, a company I have huge pride in as they have introduced sustainability to hundreds of thousands of guests from all over the world.
Some of my expedition successes have been a 25 day big wall route in Baffin Island, a solo big wall ascent in Pakistan, a 10 pitch 5.12 route in the Bugaboos and a new 4500 foot 5.13 free climb on Mt. Combatant in the Waddington Range. This summer of 2007 I also completed two record link ups. In Squamish I climbed University Wall, The Roman Chimneys, Northern Lights and Freeway, all free, leading every pitch in 16.5 hours. A week later I visited the Bugaboo Range and climbed 5 routes on 5 peaks free solo in a day. McTech Arete, N.E. Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, The Becky / Chouinard on the South Howser Tower and the Krauss / McCarthy on Snowpatch Spire. I've also enjoyed putting up several first ascents in Squamish including three big wall free routes and two big wall aid routes. While cruising around as a climbing bum I've also put up a big wall aid route in Powell River, a couple multi pitch routes in Thailand, many single pitch deep water solo routes in Vietnam, Thailand and Malta and finally several smaller rock objectives in the Waddington range and Squamish.
CLIMBING RESUME
Major First Ascents
Cro-Magnon Man (V A4 5.9) Zodiac Wall, Squamish, Sept 04.
The Smoke Show (ED2 5.12d 1pa) S Face of The Incisor, Mt. Combatant, Waddington,
Aug 04.
Wild Fire (V 5.11d 10 pitches) Wide Awake Tower, Bugaboos. Aug 03.
Yukon Gold (V 5.12+ A0) Zodiac Wall, Squamish. July 03.
F.O.P.A.P.O (IV 5.10+) Chicken Tower, Thailand. Jan 03.
The Over Nighter (V 5.11 A3) Mt Combatant, Waddington Range, July 02.
Horizoned (IV 5.11) Stiletto Needle, Waddington Range, July 02.
The Black Dyke (V 5.13b 12 pitches) Grand Wall, Squamish. June 02.
Against the Grain (VI V2 A4- ) Solo, Nangma Valley, Pakistan. 12 days, July
01.
Midnight Watch (VII 5.10 A4+) Gibbs Fiord, Baffin Island. 25 days, May 00.
Warriors of the Wasteland (5.12b 8 pitches) Western Dihedrals, Squamish. Sept
99.
Funk Soul Brother (VI 5.9 A4+) Powell River B.C. 8days, Aug 99.
Free Climbs
Deep Water Soloing: March of the Jelly Fish 7C+, Pussy Galore 7B+, Maximus
7A+, Tron V5 6B
Free Solo: Becky\Chounard (V 5.10, onsight) McTech Arete (5.10, onsight) Clean
Crack 5.11b
Yosemite: Astroman, Rostrum (onsight), Half Dome NW face regular (8:38 hrs).
Squamish: Northern Lights, Freeway, University Wall.
Moab: 14 desert towers, onsight of; Dolofright 11d, Infrared 12a, and The
Witch 11d.
Black Canyon: Onsight of Stoned Oven (V 5.12a).
Thailand: Lord of the Thai's 7b+ (onsight), FA: Blue Moon 5.11+ four pitches.
Pakistan: Luxor Pyramid (5.10, 9 pitches) Charakusa Valley, Karakoram .
Bouldering:
Ride the Lightning, V8 high ball
NoTroblems V9
Sesame Street V10
Sport Routes:
Table of Colors 13b in Red River Gorge,
Nubian Queen 13b on Dyke.
Trad Routes:
Flight of the Challenger 12c,
Genius Loci 12b,
The Underfling 13a.
Big Walls
Squamish:
FA: Lost at Sea (V A4 5.9) 3 pitches.
FA: Cro-Magnon Man (V A4 5.9) 10 pitches.
FA Solo: Born Slippy (VI A3).
2nd ascent: I Shot the Sheriff (V A4+).
Solo 2nd ascent: Under the Gun (V A4).
Solo 2nd ascent: Cowboys and Indians (V A3).
Yosemite:
Native Son (VI A4+) 4 1/2 days.
Solo Zenyatta Mondatta, (VI A4) 4 days.
A.O. Wall (VI A4) 4 days.
Clean ascent of Mescalito (VI C4) 6 days.
S.S. to P.O. Wall (VI A3+) 6 days.
Sea of Dreams (VI A4) 5 1/2 days.
Zion:
First clean ascent of Lunar Ecstasy (V C4) 2 days.
Ice and Mixed:
Canadian Rockies:
Carls Berg Pillar WI 5.
Curtain Call WI 6.
Betty's Pillar WI 6.
Last Call M7.
Boyd's Mystery M8.
Coast Mountains:
Shriek of the Sheep WI 5.
Waddington Range:
Stiletto Ice Chimneys WI 4.
