Matt Maddaloni
Passion: Adventure rock climbing, big walls, deep water
soloing.
Home Base: Squamish, Canada.
I consider myself an all round climber but my climbing
resume tends to point towards adventure rock climbing
and deep water soloing. Now at the age of 31, I've been
living in Canada's granite destination, Squamish B.C.
for the past 15 years and 6 of those years with my wonderfull
wife Annie. I work at Ziptrek.com
as their lead construction rigger and machine designer,
a company I have huge pride in as they have introduced
sustainability to hundreds of thousands of guests from
all over the world. I have recently started my own company
called SeaToSkyCam.com
offering Hollywood level camera angles by using jib
booms and radio controlled cable cams at a price that
the outdoor adventure film industry can afford.
Some of my expedition successes have been a 25 day
big wall route in Baffin Island, a solo big wall ascent
in Pakistan, a 10 pitch 5.12 route in the Bugaboos and
a new 4500 foot 5.13 free climb on Mt. Combatant in
the Waddington Range.
In 2007 I completed two record link ups. In Squamish
I climbed University Wall, The Roman Chimneys, Northern
Lights and Freeway, all free, leading every pitch in
16.5 hours. A week later I visited the Bugaboo Range
and climbed 5 routes on 5 peaks free solo in a day.
McTech Arete, N.E. Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, West Ridge
of Pigeon Spire, The Becky / Chouinard on the South
Howser Tower and the Krauss / McCarthy on Snowpatch
Spire.
Major First Ascents
Cro-Magnon Man (V A4 5.9) Zodiac Wall, Squamish, Sept
04.
The Smoke Show (ED2 5.12d 1pa) S Face of The Incisor,
Mt. Combatant, Waddington, Aug 04.
Wild Fire (V 5.11d 10 pitches) Wide Awake Tower, Bugaboos.
Aug 03.
Yukon Gold (V 5.12+ A0) Zodiac Wall, Squamish. July
03.
F.O.P.A.P.O (IV 5.10+) Chicken Tower, Thailand. Jan
03.
The Over Nighter (V 5.11 A3) Mt Combatant, Waddington
Range, July 02.
Horizoned (IV 5.11) Stiletto Needle, Waddington Range,
July 02.
The Black Dyke (V 5.13b 12 pitches) Grand Wall, Squamish.
June 02.
Against the Grain (VI V2 A4- ) Solo, Nangma Valley,
Pakistan. 12 days, July 01.
Midnight Watch (VII 5.10 A4+) Gibbs Fiord, Baffin Island.
25 days, May 00.
Warriors of the Wasteland (5.12b 8 pitches) Western
Dihedrals, Squamish. Sept 99.
Funk Soul Brother (VI 5.9 A4+) Powell River B.C. 8days,
Aug 99.
Free Climbs
Deep Water Soloing: March of the Jelly Fish 7C+, Pussy
Galore 7B+, Maximus 7A+, Tron V5 6B
Free Solo: Becky\Chounard (V 5.10, onsight) McTech Arete
(5.10, onsight) Clean Crack 5.11b
Yosemite: Astroman, Rostrum (onsight), Half Dome NW
face regular (8:38 hrs).
Squamish: Northern Lights, Freeway, University Wall.
Moab: 14 desert towers, onsight of; Dolofright 11d,
Infrared 12a, and The Witch 11d.
Black Canyon: Onsight of Stoned Oven (V 5.12a).
Thailand: Lord of the Thai's 7b+ (onsight), FA: Blue
Moon 5.11+ four pitches.
Pakistan: Luxor Pyramid (5.10, 9 pitches) Charakusa
Valley, Karakoram .
Bouldering:
Ride the Lightning, V8 high ball
NoTroblems V9
Sesame Street V10
Sport Routes:
Table of Colors 13b in Red River Gorge,
Nubian Queen 13b on the Black Dyke, Grand Wall, Squamish.
Trad Routes:
Flight of the Challenger 12c,
Vargas Girl 12b,
Genius Loci 12b,
The Underfling 13a.
Big Walls
Squamish:
FA: Lost at Sea (V A4 5.9) 3 pitches.
FA: Cro-Magnon Man (V A4 5.9) 10 pitches.
FA Solo: Born Slippy (VI A3).
2nd ascent: I Shot the Sheriff (V A4+).
Solo 2nd ascent: Under the Gun (V A4).
Solo 2nd ascent: Cowboys and Indians (V A3).
Yosemite:
Native Son (VI A4+) 4 1/2 days.
Solo Zenyatta Mondatta, (VI A4) 4 days.
A.O. Wall (VI A4) 4 days.
Clean ascent of Mescalito (VI C4) 6 days.
S.S. to P.O. Wall (VI A3+) 6 days.
Sea of Dreams (VI A4) 5 1/2 days.
Zion:
First clean ascent of Lunar Ecstasy (V C4) 2 days.
Ice and Mixed:
Canadian Rockies:
Carls Berg Pillar WI 5.
Curtain Call WI 6.
Betty's Pillar WI 6.
Last Call M7.
Boyd's Mystery M8.
Coast Mountains: Shriek of the Sheep WI 5.
Waddington Range: Stiletto Ice Chimneys WI 4.
Ziptrek Ecotours Lead
Rigger (2003 to 2007 full time.)
www.ziptrek.com Owner: Dave Udow, 604.902.1980
Experience with cables for Zip lines up to 2000 ft
long and 7/8” diameter. Loads up to 14,000 lb.
Construction of aerial platforms, suspension bridges,
towers, permanent and non permanent buildings, catwalks,
tree work, spurring, toping, falling.
Design zip line technology, patented braking systems,
permanent rescue systems and rigging and rescue instruction
for guides.
Arc’teryx Promotional Film
- Lead Rigger (Dec 2006)
www.arcteryx.com Marketing department: John Irvine,
604.613.6603
Arc’teryx is a large technical outdoor clothing
company located in Vancouver, BC.
I was hired to set up high lines, Tyrolean and fixed
lines for Paul Bride (Cameraman) to shoot Arc’teryx
athletes in the Canadian Rockies on technical and hard
to get to ice and mixed routes. Contract spanned a week.
ELF Construction Create
access - Rigger (Aug 2006)
Contractor: Mark Gandy, 604.815.1023
The surveying company was spending too much on helicopter
services to access forest located across a river near
Whistler. Our rigging crew was hired to set up a temporary
cable to span the river as a Tyrolean traverse. We trained
the workers to use a harness and pulley system and taught
them the necessary safety precautions.
Busch Beer Commercial
- Lead Rigger (Oct 2005)
Mirror Productions Director: Chris Woods, 604.932.2778
This commercial was to be aired during the 2006 Super
Bowl. I was consulted on zip line technology and then
hired to set up an adjustable high line for stunt performers
that I also trained. While filming I worked with the
performers one on one.
Cirque Fantastique Lead Rigger
(single performance in Whistler, BC 2005)
www.cirquefantastic.com
I was hired to set up live load systems such as Triple
Trapeze, Silks and Flip Lifts that are side harness
mounted. The lead rigger was sick so I rigged the entire
performance on my own.
Sponsored Rock Climber
(2000 to 2007)
Current sponsors: Arc’teryx, MSR, Sterling Rope,
Omega Pacific, SeaEagle. Past sponsors: Black Diamond
Equipment, Metolius, Esprit ropes.
I have the Equivalent of a University degree of climbing
techniques that I have used around the World on highly
exposed expeditions. A full time cameraman has been
present on most trips with footage used in articles
in Alpinist, Climbing Magazine, Rock and Ice, Climb
(UK), Gripped (Canada), Canoe and Kayak, and film shown
in the Vancouver Mountain Film Festival, Banff Mountain
Film Festival, commercial DVD’s and personal North
American show tours.
40 Big Walls with 5 major first ascents.
150 days spent on a portaledge.
Locales; Baffin Island, Pakistan, India, Nepal, Waddington
Range, Squamish, Yosemite, Moab, Zion, Bugaboos, Canadian
Rockies, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, ect…
EDUCATION
Kirk Mauthner (Rigging for Rescue)
Harry Donovan (Entertainment Rigging)
Leavitt Machinery (Operator Safety Training for Aerial
Platform Lifts)
Contact me for more
info
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